Κυριακή, 8 Απριλίου, 2012
Today is another nice spring day in Marathon, and we have grilled boops boops on the menu.
Σημερα ειναι ακομη μια ομορφη ανοιξιατικη μερα στο Μαραθωνα και το μενου εχει γοπες ψητες.
Boops boops is a humble fish. But when it is fresh, it beats the best stale lobster (paraphrasing Feran Adria).
In order to preserve the flavours and the juices of the fresh fish, I will grill it, honouring a centuries old tradition.
To add more tradition and locality to the humble meal, I will use the chopped peel of pickled lemons. It adds fantastic complex flavour that combines heavenly with the taste of the fish.
After chopping the peel, I use it to stuff the belly of the fish, and sprinkle fresh chopped coriander and coarse sea salt over the fish, with a touch of olive oil.
The grilled fish must be crispy outside and moist and juicy inside. This is the essence of grilling fish. I did it the right way, and heaven could not wait.
The flesh was moist and firm, but juicy and delicious. Having said that, nothing could beat the skin. Miles and miles above everything else!
Accompany the fish with a glass of «savatiano» white wine, and you will agree with me that gastronomic perfection is not reserved only for royalty or the truly rich.
Σάββατο, 19 Σεπτεμβρίου, 2009
Ristorante Uliassi is located in the small resort town of Senigallia, on the Adriatic sea, a few kilometers away from Ancona. It comes highly recommended from Michelin Red Guide (two stars) and the Italian Gastronomic Guide Gambero Rosso.
As I was on my way to Ravenna, I decided to stop by and taste the creations of the chef. I arrived just in time one late summer night, to experience the dying light and the emerging darkness.
My menu choice was the «Tuto Crudo», meaning «Raw all the way». This would highlight the qualities of the ingredients and the synthetic ability of the chef, as his contribution to the dish would be primarily the synthesis of the ingredients.
The first dish was oyster with potatoes and red onion ice cream with a leaf of chocolate.
The oyster was sumptuous in taste, full or aromas and it was perfectly supported by the tasty potatoes and the heavelnly onion ice cream. The leaf of chocolate gave the necessary bitter undertone.
The second dish was shrimp with duck foie gras and strawberry paste. The raw shrimp is sweet in its own way, ans the acidity of the straberry supplemented it in a harmonious way, while the foie added the body that seafood does not have.
I now come to one of the absolutely fabulous dishes of the evening and my entire life as a food lover. Frozen sea urchin eggs with cod tripe. What a pandemonium of tastes, aromas and all of them encased on the tender silky texture of the cod tripe!
What followed was another absolute masterpiece, cuttlefish tagliatelle with pesto of nori seaweed. The cuttlefish was tender and tasty, drassed in the incredibly rich in aromas pesto of the nori! Heavenly, heavenly, heavenly!
The saga continued with «rossetti» which is some type of scampi with olive oil, scallions and pine kerners. It was the perfect calming down dish, after the wild extravagant taste of the previous dish. Back to «normal», civilized, food!
We stayed on the scampi family, the next dish was scampi in their shell, with tamarind. I confess I am crazy for scampi in their shell, with minimal add ons, as you can really taste the sea in all its glory!
The next dish combined surf and turf, with glorious mouth melting smoked lonzino (a type of cured ham) accompanied by raw leerfish (lecchia), and pears soaked in grapa!
As we approach the end, leerfish is again on the menu, this type with coconut milk and olive oil!
The last dish of the menu was «esquisada di baccala». Raw cod chunks (salted cod from San Sebastian in the Basque Country, quite possibly the best in the world), with potatoes, pendolini tomatoes and basil.This is a hymn to primary ingredients of the best quality, as the cod’s texture is supplemented by the sweetness of the potatoes and the incredible acidity of the small tomatoes that have been blessed by the volcanic soil of Vesuvius.
The tirami-sou that followed was deconstructed and absolutely fantastic! The mascarpone was intense and ever present, the cream golden and thick, the chocolate dressed in coffee chunky and bitter! A caramelized wet biscuit on top provided the necessary absorbing agent.No cake needed!
Κυριακή, 28 Ιουνίου, 2009
Σημερα θελω να παμε στο Δουραμπεη στο Μικρολιμανο για μεζεδακια και ψαρακια.
Μια παραδοσιακη δυναμη καλου φαγητου, ο Δουραμπεης σημερα προσφερει ενα ομορφα διαμορφωμενο και δροσερο καλοκαιρινο ντεκ.
Η αρχη εγινε με αχινοσαλατα τελεια και γευστικωτατη.
Μετα το λουτρο στις αναλαφρες γευσεις ακολουθησε η αρμονια γευσεων απο τους πετροσωληνες.
Η σως στους πετροσωληνες ηταν ενα αριστουργημα, αξιζε δεκα φορες και παραπανω η επισκεψη και μονο για αυτη την αρμονια γευσεων!
Για να καταλαβετε την ενταση και τη διαρκεια της γευσης, εντυσα τη ροδελα του καλαμαριου με τη σως και πηγα για μια ακομη φορα στα ουρανια!
Επιτελους! Καραβιδοψυχα υπεροχα τηγανισμενη, με λιγο πιπερακι, χωρις μαγιονεζα! Πολιτισμος θαλασσινος και αληθινος!
Κι ερχομαστε στις αδιαμφισβητητες σταρ του τραπεζιου, τις υπεροχες κατσουλες (Xyrichtys novacula), που οσο ομορφες ειναι να τις βλεπεις αλλο τοσο γευστικες ειναι να τις απολαμβανεις τηγανισμενες σε βουτυρο! Ζητησα απο τον σεφ να βαλει βουτυο γιατι αυτο ψαρακι θελει το βουτυρο του!
Δεν το συζητω, μοναδικες γευσεις ελληνικες, η σαρκα του ψαριου αυτου ειναι σαν το μεταξι! Και μοσχοβολα θαλασσα!
Το τηγανισμα ηταν εργο μαεστρου, που ξερει καλα το ψαρι και το τηγανι!
υγ. Στα αγγλικα το ψαρακι λεγεται Pearly razorfish.
Δευτέρα, 6 Απριλίου, 2009
Today I peesent some pictures of fishes and seafood from the Boqueria Market in Barcelona.
Rodaballo (Turbot). Note the dark colouring of the fish, especially compared to the ones of the Eastern Mediterranean, which feature pink colours.
Navajas (razor clams). A perfect delicacy, as you can taste it in the food stalls inside the Boqueria, with parsley and garlic.
A rich variety of crabs all over! It is like a dream.
Centollas (spider crabs)
Necoras (Velvet crabs)
Buey vivo (edible crab, cancer pagurus)
Langostinos (king prawns)
Πέμπτη, 28 Αυγούστου, 2008
One of the signs of freshness in the squid is the light grey – brown colour of its skin. When it starts turning rosy the freshness is gone.
Κυριακή, 24 Αυγούστου, 2008
For those who want to capture the flavours of the Aegean, as fresh as you can get them, the «Limanaki» Tavern in Neos Pyrgos on the northern tip of Evia is the place to go.
The tavern is literally on the small harbour of fishing boats that venture out in the Aegean every day for a catch. The village of Neos Pyrgos is small and its big neighbour, Orei, has all the big fishing boats. Neos Pyrgos has the small ones, and this is why you can eat fish that has been literally hooked, and not caught in the nets.
Limanaki is the favourite place of the fishermen when they return in the morning. You can see them having «tsipouro» (the local grappa, or eau de vie) eight o’clock in the morning, while Nikos, the Limanaki proprietor prepares a nice meze for them.
Enough of all that, lets now get to the food.
In the summer, it is essential to start with ultra tender green beans, called «ambelofassoula».
After that you can have prawns grilled to perfection, that I suggest you eat without taking the head off. Its full of flavours and deliciously crunchy.
What comes naturally next is whole fried little fish, called «atherina».
The grilled cod that comes to conclude the set has been caught on hook. The fish is sweet, the flesh is firm and has nothing on it but coarse salt. Just add a little olive oil and lemon and you have it.