Lunch in Marathon: Pork chops – Lamb offal (Gardoumbes) – Aubergines

Among other things, I have recently moved out of the metropolitan area of Athens to the hills overlooking Marathon, some 40 kilometers away from the center of Athens. The arson fire that devastated the area in 2009 has left its marks on the landscape, a stark reminder that the worst enemy of Greece are the Greeks themselves!

After settling in, I invited the “closed” circle to come over and have lunch “al fresco”, in the open fresh air.

As the weather is still good, with temperatures reaching 21 degrees Centigrade, the cooking was done outside as well. Charcoals provided the much needed fire.

I start with the aubergines, or eggplants, which I can eat all the time, every time. I got them from a farmer who is down the road from where I am. I cut them in thick slices and put them in salted watr for one hour. The slices must be thick because they will be grilled and we do not want them to be burned and dried, but soft and juicy, albeit with a carbonated crust.

The pork chops came from the shoulder of the animal, in order to have the necessary marbling. I always prepare the meat by placing it in a mild solution of sea salt and herbs. After two hours the meat is juicier, its color lighter, and it tastes a lot better! If you have not done it before, try it now. With pork! It also works wonders with chicken.

Finally, the “Gardoumbes”, lamb’s intestines and sweetbreads on a stick, I got from a local butcher who promised me that they were fresh and local. He even showed me a bag with some intestines that he was taking home after work.

(Χορδήν έτρωγαν οι αρχαίοι Έλληνες, χορδούνιν οι Βυζαντινοί, γαρδούμπα οι Νεοέλληνες)

We now get to the very serious business of the grill. The aubergines need just a coat of olive oil in order not to stick to the grill base. Frequent turns ensure that the surface will be only marginally “burned”. There is a very sensitive balance between the brown and the black of the surface, so be careful!

The pork chops also require a coating of olive oil in order for them not to stick on the mesh. The surface must be golden brown and the inside juicy and tender.

I serve the chops on a bed of finely chopped garlic. The combination of the charcoal flavour with the garlic is simply unbeatable. I do the same with the eggplants, adding a bit of vinegar or lemon.

Finally, the “gardoumbes” take a lot of time to cook, and the fire must be relatively mild, otherwise the outside will be dry and the inside uncooked.

All in all, a lunch that honoured the Greek pastoral tradition with pork and lamb, the two animals that have supported the inhabitants of the south Balkan area for centuries.

Beef Kidneys with porcini mushrooms, and red cabbage and cauliflower puree

This is the result of falling half asleep on the morning flight to Athens and then rushing to the hypermarket to get some basics for the weekend. When I stumbled upon the beef kidneys I knew what I was going to cook. It is one of my favorite materials, both in flavor and in texture, but it is hard to find.

The first step is to marinate the kidneys. I use vinegar, sweet wine, chili pepper flakes, coriander seeds, oregano, coarse sea salt and black pepper. I cover with bay leaves and leave it to rest for one hour or so.

A nice cauliflower and some red cabbage lead me to the second step. I slice the cabbage and simmer it in a bit of olive oil in a deep pan. I add the cauliflower cut in small bunches.

I add fresh coriander and parsley, some coarse sea salt and black pepper, cover and let cook without any water, until it becomes very soft. Remember, all this is going to make the puree that will provide the soft and comforting company ot the wild, demanding kidneys and sudjuk. Not an easy task at all!

When the cabbage is soft, put everything in the mixer and prepare a nice thick mix. I add two eggs and a bit of flower to thicken it up, then serve in the shallow container, and bake for 15 minutes in high heat, to let the excess liquid evaporate and condense the flavor.

I take out of the oven and let it rest for 10 minutes.

In the meantime, the kidneys have been sliced and are simmering in the pan with the porcini and some of their marinade.

The last step is to slice and gently fry the sudjuk.

I got this Armenian sudjuk which turned out to be very good.

Be careful not to slice it very thin, as it will go dry very easily.

I serve on a large dish with a green salad on the side.

If you open a bottle of chianti wine you will be very happy with this dish!  Although any red with a good body will do the job! But take my word, do not eat this dish without a full-bodied red wine!

Bone appetite!