Grilled Boops Boops – Γοπες ψητες

The moon setting in the early hours of Sunday 8th April

Today is another nice spring day in Marathon, and we have grilled boops boops on the menu.

Σημερα ειναι ακομη μια ομορφη ανοιξιατικη μερα στο Μαραθωνα και το μενου εχει γοπες ψητες.

Boops boops

Boops boops is a humble fish. But when it is fresh, it beats the best stale lobster (paraphrasing Feran Adria).

In order to preserve the flavours and the juices of the fresh fish, I will grill it, honouring a centuries old tradition.

Pickled lemons

To add more tradition and locality to the humble meal, I will use the chopped peel of pickled lemons. It adds fantastic complex flavour that combines heavenly with the taste of the fish.

Boops boops with coriander and pickled lemon peel

After chopping the peel, I use it to stuff the belly of the fish, and sprinkle fresh chopped coriander and coarse sea salt over the fish, with a touch of olive oil.

Grilled boops boops (gopes in Greek)

The grilled fish must be crispy outside and moist and juicy inside. This is the essence of grilling fish. I did it the right way, and heaven could not wait.

Deboned and served grilled boops boops

The flesh was moist and firm, but juicy and delicious. Having said that, nothing could beat the skin. Miles and miles above everything else!

Accompany the fish with a glass of “savatiano” white wine, and you will agree with me that gastronomic perfection is not reserved only for royalty or the truly rich.

 

Green beans with onions, garlic and herbs: a recipe from Georgia – Φασολακια με κρεμμυδι σκορδο και μυρωδικα, μια συνταγη απο τη Γεωργια

Today I am happy to share with you a recipe from the mountainous and brave country of Georgia.

It features one of the simplest and freshest ingredients of the summer, green beans.

In Greece we usually either boil them and serve with olive oil and lemon, or cook them with onions, herbs and red tomatoes (yahni).

The Georgian recipe I present today is different, and in my view it is superb. As it maintains all the essential features of the green bean, and enhances them with the herbs and onions and garlic.

Here it goes.

We boil the beans in a pot with plenty of water, a littke salt, and a pinch of baking powder.

In parallel, in a shallow pan we brown finely chopped dry onions  in olive oil.

In a mortar we pulverize garlic cloves and gradually add fresh basil leafs and chopped coriander.

I am very proud of the leafy basil I grow in my veranda. Likewise, for the extremely aromatic coriander, whose seeds came all the way from Georgia.

We add chopped basil leafs and coriander to the browned onions and let the mix relax for 5 minutes.

If you like hot stuff, add a finely chopped green pepper to the mix that goes into the onions. As you can see in the photo below, my veranda is big enough to carry the hot stuff in addition to everything else.

In the meantime, the beans are done and we strain them, and after they cool off we squeeze the liquids off them.

We add the contents of the mortar, and then the onions with the herbs. Please note that the mashed garlic, basil and coriander does not get cooked at all! You just add it to the mix at the end of the preparation.

Mix by hand, and let the mix relax for ten minutes.

Add a few drops of lemon to counterbalance the olive oil and the garlic, and enjoy one of the best dishes on this earth.

P.S. It goes particularly well with hard white goat or sheep milk cheese, like feta.

Greek Summer Lunch: Beetroots, Tamarix, and Eggplants “au gratin” – Ελληνικο Καλοκαιρινο Μεσημεριανο Γευμα: παντζαρια, αρμυρικια, παπουτσακια μελιτζανας ω γκρατεν

Πρελουδιο

Salt Cedar (Tamarix) in Greece - Αρμυρικια εις την Ελλαδα

Εχει καλοκαιριασει για τα καλα και εν τω μεσω της τεραστιας κρισης που μαστιζει την Ελλαδα, η επιβιωση απαιτει την καλοπεραση.

Και εν προκειμενω η καλοπεραση ερχεται με την μορφη και το περιεχομενο ενος καλοκαιρινου γευματος που γεμιζει την κοιλια και αγαλλιαζει την καρδια.

“Καλα θα φαμε, καλα θα πιουμε, και νηστικοι θα κοιμηθουμε”.

Ολα αυτα ερχονται σε ενα πολυ λογικο κοστος, κι ετσι επιβεβαιωνεται το ρητο που λεει “οι μεγαλες αξιες δεν ειναι υποχρεωτικα χρηματικες”. Και ευτυχως βεβαια που εχομε και την επιβεβαιωση τετοιων ρητων, αλλεως πεως πως θα επιβιωσομεν;

Παμε λοιπον.

Το γευμα περιλαμβανει δυο πιατα βραστα, παντζαρια και αρμυρικια, και ενα πιατο στο φουρνο, μελιτζανες παπουτσακια, σε μια εκδοση που ονομαζω “σπορ”, με την εννοια οτι ειναι ελαφρυτερη εκδοση και σε βαζει πιο γρηγορα στο νοημα. Το ποιο ειναι το νοημα δεν θα το αναλυσομε εδω, γιατι δεν θα τελειωσουμε γρηγορα.

Beetroot – Παντζαρια

Ανεκαθεν μου αρεσαν τα παντζαρια.

Ασε που ειναι και υγιεινα. Ενας χυμος απο παντζαρια συνισταται γενικως… Εν προκειμενω ακολουθησα μινιμαλιστικη προσεγγγιση. Τα εβρασα, τα ξεφλουδισα, και τα εκοψα σε ροδελες. Μετα λιγο αλατι, λιγο ξυδι, και ψιλοκομμενο σκορδο. Μια ωρα χαλαρωση και σερβιρισμα με ελαιολαδο.

Η απολαυση της γευσης και της υφης ειναι απεριγραπτη. Αρχιζω απο την υφη. Το παντζαρι δεν πρεπει να ειναι διαλυμενο, βρασμενο εως αποσυνθεσεως. Αντιθετα πρεπει να “βασταει”, να διατηρει δηλαδη την υφη του και την λεβεντια του. Τα λεβεντικα παντζαρια ειναι και τα καλυτερα. Καθως θρυμματιζεται η σαρκα του παντζαριου, αναδυονται τα αρωματα απο το σκορδο και το ξυδι, που δενουνε με το ελαιολαδο και ερχεται απο πανω, σαν σε θρονο, η γλυκυτητα του παντζαριου, που ομως ειναι μετριασμενη απο ολα τα αλλα και ετσι καλοδεχτη και εξισορροπουσα τα οξινα. Θελω κι αλλο!

Salt Cedar (Tamarix) – Αρμυρικια

Salt Cedar or tamarix or tamarisk is a plant that grows near the sea in Greece, but it can be found all around the Mediterranean.

Τα αρμυρικια καλλιεργουνται σημερα στην Ατικη, αλλα παρολα αυτα ειναι εξαιρετικα ευγευστα. Πρεπει βεβαια να τα βρασεις σωστα, προκειμενου να διατηρησουν και το χρωμα τους, το βαθυ πρασινο, αλλα και την υφη, που ειναι και ενα απο τα μεγαλα τους προσοντα. Τα αρμυρικια δεν θελουν καθαρισμα. Λιγο κοψιμο θελει το κοτσνι, αλλα οχι πολυ. Τα καλα αρμυρικια εχουν τρυφερωτατο κοτσανι. Μετα το βρασιμο αναπαυση, και σερβιρισμα με λιγο λαδι, λιγο αλατι και λεμονι.

Η απολαυση στο αρμυρικι ειναι και συνδυασμος υφης και διακριτικης γευσης. Και παλι υπερκρισιμο ειναι το βρασιμο. Με το σωστο βρασιμο, το αρμυρικι γινεται τρυφερο αλλα δεν διαλυεται, οποτε με το που το μασας αισθανεσαι εκατομμυρια μικρες εκρηξεις να επιτελουνται, μια και τα τρυγερωτατα φυλλα που ειναι σαν ακιδες θρυμματιζονται  εκτοξευοντας χυμους και τα διακριτικα αρωματα του αρμυρικιου. Ο συνδυασμος με το ελαιολαδο και το λεμονι ειναι εξαιρετικος, αλλα θελει πολυ προσοχη για να μην καλυφθει η λεπτη και διακριτικη γευση του.

Μελιτζανες παπουτσακια σπορ

Τα παπουτσακια ειναι απο τα αγαπημενα μου πιατα. Σημερα σερβιρω την εκδοση “σπορ”, που σημαινει οτι δεν εχω μπεσαμελ αλλα μονο μιγμα τυριων. Ειμαι δηλαδη κοντα σε μια εκδοση “ω γκρατεν”.

Αρχικα κοβω τις φλασκες σε δυο συμμετρικα μισα, και τα σκλαιζω με ενα μαχαιρι, για να δημιουργηθει μια κοιλοτητα. Ολη την ψυχα την βαζω με κρεμμυδια στο τηγανι για να μαραθει, ενω τα μισα μπαινουν στο γκριλ για να μαλακωσουν, χωρις να ψηθουν εντελως. Στα μισα δεν βαζω τιποτε.

Αφου μαραθουν τα κρεμμυδια και οι ψυχες προσθετω μισο – μισο χοιρινο και μοσχαρισιο κιμα και αφηνω να φυγουν τα πολλα υγρα.

Συνεχιζω προσθετοντας μικρα τοματακια ολοκληρα απο κονσερβα ΚΥΚΝΟΣ, που ειναι η αγαπημενη και αξιοπιστη μαρκα σε προιοντα τοματας.

Μολις φυγουν τα πολλα ζουμακια και τα ντοματακια αρχισουν να διαλυονται, στρωνω το μιγμα στα μισα της μελιτζανας, που εχουν μαλακωσει χωρις να ψηθουν ολοτελα.

Τελειωνω με την επιστρωση απο τριμμενο τυρι. Εν προκειμενω εχω εμενταλ και γραβιερα.

Ολοταχως στον πολυ καυτο φουρνο των 250 βαθμων Κελσιου, και ψησιμο 20 λεπτα για να λοιωσουν τα τυρια και να ενσωματωθουν τα υγρα με την μελιτζανα.

Σερβιρω με ψιλοκομμενο κολιανδρο και βασιλικο.

Το οξινο της ντοματας δενει με την γλυκυτητα των τυριων και αγκαλιαζουν τον κυμα που ειναι γευστικος και ολιγον καυετερος (αν θελετε βαζετε λιγο καυτερη πιπερια η μπουκοβο). Η διακριτικη παρουσια της μελιτζανας ολοκληρωνει τη γευστικη αρμονια.

Καλη ορεξη και ας παει και το παληαμπελο!

Greek Ratatuille (Briam, Turlu) with two kinds of Herba Basilici (Basil)

As Summer is now with us, I felt like greeting it with a dish that resembles ratatuille, but is influenced by the flavours of Eastern Mediterranean and Georgia. I took the Greek briam or turlu recipe, and modified it to adopt some elements of its Gerogian relevant dish. This modification is the use of “Rehani”, a variety of basil that has bluish and green leaves, and hot green peppers. Here is what happenned.

My good friend from Georgia, Lali, grows in her garden “Rehani”, which you see in the picture above. It belongs ot the family of “basil”, but has bluish leaves and more assertive taste. Rehani is used in briam, and in fresh salads. I decided to follow this trail of freshness, and went to a farm outside Athens, near Marathin, where they grow organic vegetables, and bought eggplants, tomatoes, and zucchini.

Eggplants

The first ingredient that goes in the baking tray is the eggplants.

Green and red eppers, and zucchini

I then added sliced zucchini and chunks of red and green peppers, coarse sea salt and black peppers, along with finely chopped hot green pepper.

Fresh Tomatoes

I use only fresh tomatoes, plenty of them, and do not bother to pulp them. I just cut them in chunks and throw them on top of the previous stuff.

Finally, I add chopped dry onions, chopped rehani and wide leaves of vasil, and parseley, more sea salt and black pepper, and some olive oil to add taste. Bake in 250 degrees celcius for about one hour, and let it rest for 30 minutes before eating.

Ready to serve

This dish is a triumph of nature! All the cook needs to do is to know how to bake it so that it does not try out, nor is it too watery. The rest is left to the natural flavours of the super fresh and excellent ingredients!!! With dishes like these, I would be a vegetarian anytime!

Pavillon de la Mer – A light dish for Spring days under the Sun

Today I share with you a dish that is perfect for the sunny days of Spring, and can be enjoyed al fresco as well as indoors.  I This is an original recipe of mine, and I gave it a rather pretentious name: “Pavillon de la Mer”.

The first ingredient of the dish is lightly cured bonito (lakerda), a fish in the tuna family. I gave the recipe for this wonderful fish back in 2008.  The only difference between then and now is that the fish is a lot smaller, and for this reason I fileted it before curing, rathern than cutting it across with the bone.

Lightly cured bonito (lakerda) filet

The second ingredient is a mix of vegetables. Carrots, coliflower, brocolli, and dill weed. Steam the vegetables for 10 minutes, let them cool off and then put in a blender.

The third ingredient is salted cod, or bacalao if you like (I like). After placing in cold water for at least 24 hours, I boil the fish in water with a just a little garlic.

The fourth ingredient is home made mayonnaise made with olive oil.

After 5 minutes in the boiling water, the cod is done. Remove from the pot and let it rest until lukewarm. Then mix thoroughly with the blended vegetables, and let the mix rest for at least 15 minutes.  After that, spoon in plenty of mayo and blend thoroughly.

Use a round open container to give the mix a cylindrical shape (a la pavillion), and place on top three fingers of the cured bonito. Finalize the simple layout of the dish with capers.

Enjoy with asyrtico white from Santorini.

Anchovies with fresh oregano and garlic – Γαυρος στο φουρνο με φρεσκια ριγανη και σκορδο

“Primum vivere, deinde philosophare” goes the Latin saying, and it is right (although I personally have difficulty following it all the time.) It means that first we must ensure that we stay alive, and then spend time on philosophizing. So after the ouverture of Existentialism, it is time for a good meal.

Today’s dish is a super quick but delicious nutritious and tasty dish that smells of Spring and gives your inner self a warm feeling that the world is not such a bad place after all, if it can produce natural flavors like these.

Ship arriving at the port of Rafina

Like all good meals, this started with a visit to my fishmonger, who is in the port of Rafina, a few kilometers east of Athens. By the way, it is places like Rafina that make Athens still a bearable place to live. Within 30 minutes you are in a totally different – and better – environment, in this case the sea, and all of tis goods.

Fresh anchovies

Among other wonderful fish and seafood,I found super fresh anchovies, brought in this  morning.  I am very fond of this small fish, as It is tasty and versatile. I can do many things with it, and today I married it with fresh oregano from my garden.

I consider the web a totally imperfect tool, as I cannot offer you the smell of this oregano. It is uplifting and mesmerizing!  So lets get down to work: remove the heads of the anchovies and the guts, wash thoroughly, spread on a baking tray, sprinkle with olive oil, and coarse sea salt, shake about so that salt and oil spread evenly, and top with the oregano leaves and finely chopped garlic.

Bake in 250 Celcius for 15 minutes, remove from the oven and enjoy!

At less than 8 Euros per kilo, this is a cheap fish meal, but a lot of the very very expensive dishes would try very hard to match its taste. Who said that cheap is not good? As long as it is fresh, of course!

Leek pie with celery and red cabbage

Today I cooked a nice light dish for the end of the winter. A leek pie with celery and red cabbage.

The basis of the filling of the pie is the leek, so we need the best fresh and juicy leeks. Cut them in big chunks so that they  maintain some of their texture.

To give the filling some flavor, I got some air – dried wild boar from my good friend Dario.

There is a lot of fat but also a lot of fully flavored meat, so just chop it in small cubes and sautee  until light brown.

Add the leeks and celery and let the mix in strong heat for ten minutes, so that the liquids evaporate.

Add a little bit of sliced red cabbage (I use pickled cabbage) and three eggs. Spread on a baking dish, over hand prepared dough. If you do not know how to prepare hand made dough, you can buy ready made from the food stores, but it is not the same!

Cover with another sheet and mark with a knife so that steam can easily get out. Bake in 200 degreses Centigrade for 30 minutes.

Let it rest for 30 minutes and serve.

Enjoy with a glass of merlot.

Cuccina Povera: Pasta with sardine sauce – Ταπεινη Κουζινα: Φυτιλακι με σαρδελες

Today I continue my “Cuccina Povera” theme with a delicious and easy to do dish: pasta with sardines.

I got from my fisherman fresh sardines which I cured in a salt and water solution for a few hours.

Once the fillets are  lightly cured, I placed in a shallow pan with dry and fresh onions, garlic, chilli peppers, capers, parsley and celery.

I let the fillets cook until they dissolve into a puree.  Then add canned tomatoes and tomato puree and let the mix homogenize for 20 minutes.

Once the sardines mix has been turned into a thick delicious sauce, it is time to prepare the pasta. The dish requires pasta that adsorbs the sauce. I have selected a rustic pasta coming from the island of Chios.

Once the pasta is ready, drain and combine with the sauce. Let it rest for 5 minutes, and serve immediately.

Eating the dish is like navigating in Riemann’s space (for the lovers of geometry). A manifold of flavors unfolds in your mouth.

And the total cost of the dish is low. Try it!

Brandada de Bacalao – Salt Cod Mash (Brandade)

After the excesses of Despoinarion’s Oscars gala dinner, today’s dish is easy, cheap (cost efficient) and tasty! In addition, it has a name that in some languages refers to sensual oscillations…

Lets start with the geography of the dish. It is a Mediterranean dish, in the large sense, as we find it also in Portugal and the Basque Country. We find it in Catalunya, Provence, Rousillon, Languedoc, Liguria, Valencia.

It is based on salt cod (bacalao), garlic and olive oil. The variations include bread, potatoes, cream. What I present today is my own version, which uses potatoes, parsley, dill, garlic, and bread crumbs. It is an all season all weather dish, and goes very well with white wine. Who said that cucina povera is not wonderful?

It is best to use salted cod for the dish. Desalinate the cod and then remove the skin. Simmer in milk for 5 minutes in medium heat. Then gently break the flesh in a food processor. Gently, otherwise, you will get a mousse instead of threads.

Chop garlic, parseley and dill and boil potates until they become soft. Remove from the heat, drain, and then gently mash them in the food processor. Bring all the ingredients together in a large mixing bowl.

 Spread the mix on a baking tray that has been thoroughly oiled, cover with breadcrumds and bake in 200 degrees centigrade for 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and let it rest for 30 minutes before serving.

Prepare a mix of vegetables (fried or baked) for serving with the brandade. I have prepared a mix of red peppers, eggplants and zucchini with tomato sauce.

Cut the brandade in squares and serve over the vegetables sprinkling with chopped parsely.

Enjoy responsibly with chilled asirtiko, and let the good times roll!!!