Θαλασσινο Ρολο με Μπακαλιαρο, Αρμυρα και Σεσκουλα – Loaf with cod, armira, and seskoula

Σημερα παρουσιαζω μια νεα συνταγη, που ειναι κατ εξοχην καλοκαιρινη αλλα ακομα και τωρα μπορει να “παιξει” ειδικα στις νοτιωτερες περιοχες.

Ειναι ενα ρολο, που η κυρια μαζα του ειναι αρμυρα, ενω στον πυρηνα βρισκουμε λαχταριστο μπακαλιαρο. Το περιτυλιγμα ειναι υπεροχα φυλλα απο σεσκουλα.

Παμε λοιπον. Το ψαρι πρεπει να ειναι τουλαχιστον ενα κιλο, για να εχει αρκετη σαρκα που μπαινει στον πυρηνα του ρολου. Κοβουμε τον μπακαλιαρο σε κομματια αρκετα μεγαλα για να μπορεσουν να σωταριστουν μαζι με σκορδα και φρεσκα κρεμμυδια. Δεκα λεπτα το πολυ.

Η αρμυρα βραζει για δυο λεπτα ακριβως, οχι παραπανω, και πρεπει να ειναι πραγματικα φρεσκια.

Αφου κρυωσει η αρμυρα, προσθετουμε αβγα, αλατι και πιπερι, λιγο μπεικον καψαλισμενο και μια χουφτα πληγουρι.

Στο μεταξυ εχουμε ζεματισει τα περηφανα πλατεια φυλλα απο τα σεσκουλα, και τα εχουμε απλωσει στο λαδοχαρτο για να υποδεχτουν την γεμιση. Θυμιζω οτι τα φυλλα αυτα ειναι το περιτυλιγμα.

Στη συνεχεια πλαωνουμε την αρμυρα με τα προσθετα, και στο μεσο βαζουμε την τρυφερη σαρκα του μπακαλιαρου.

Τα ζουμακια που βλεπετε ειναι καλοδεχουμενα, γιατι θα οδηγησουν σε ζουερο και ευγεστο αποτελεσμα. Με μετρο βεβαια!

Τυλιγουμε στο λαδοχαρτο και φουρνιζουμε σε πολυ δυνατο φουρνο για 20 λεπτα.

Σερβιρουμε με πατατες φουρνου.

Ειναι ενα πιατο γεματο θαλασσα!

Ravenna! The Italian jewel of Byzantium – Part I: San Vitale

Today I visit Ravenna, a sleepy small town near the Adriatic Coast. Ravenna became the seat of Byzantine government in Italy in the sixth century (540), and remained so until 751, when the Lombards took it.

What makes Ravenna unique is the Byzantine treasures that have survived over the centuries and carefully been restored, the mosaics that adourn so many churches and monuments.

In this first part I present some of the highlights of the beautiful Church of San Vitale. The church was built in the middle of the sixth century and is the only church from the period of Emperor Justinian, that has survived the centuries.

In one of the spectacular panels of the church, the Emperor who made Ravenna the capital of Byzantium in the West is seen with his entourage and Bishop Maximian.

The Church was dedicated to Bishop Maximian in 547 and he is the nly named figure in the panel.

In another panel, we see a young, beardless Christ

giving the crown of martyrdom to St. Vitalis, while Bishop Exxlesius is presenting a model of the Church. Ecclesius was the Bishop who started the building of the Chuch in 526.

The representation of Agnus Dei, the Lamb of God is stunning.Agnus Dei is the allegorical representation of the “Sacrifice” of Christ.

Agnus Dei is positioned directly above the altar.

The mosais on the Arches are by themselves masterpieces.

What a wonsderful depiction of our Saviour! Encircled by four dolphins!

This decorative detail is the best testimony to the absolute glory of the church’s mosaics.

Empress Theodora and her friends.

The church is full of symbolic images, figures and episodes from the Testament.

Abel and Melchizedek.

San Vitale is a treasure that cannot be exhaused easily. I feel I need to go back again and again. Same feeling I had in Moni Choras.

Ristorante Uliassi – Senigallia, Marche, Italia

Ristorante Uliassi is located in the small resort town of Senigallia, on the Adriatic sea, a few kilometers away from Ancona. It comes highly recommended from Guide Michelin (two stars) and the Italian Gastronomic Guide Gambero Rosso.

As I was on my way to Ravenna, I decided to stop by and taste the creations of the chef. I arrived just in time one late summer night, to experience the dying light and the emerging darkness.

My menu choice was the “Tuto Crudo”, meaning “Raw all the way”. This would highlight the qualities of the ingredients and the synthetic ability of the chef, as his contribution to the dish would be primarily the synthesis of the ingredients.

The first dish was oyster with potatoes and red onion ice cream with a leaf of chocolate.

The oyster was sumptuous in taste, full or aromas and it was perfectly supported by the tasty potatoes and the heavelnly onion ice cream. The leaf of chocolate gave the necessary bitter undertone.

The second dish was shrimp with duck foie gras and strawberry paste. The raw shrimp is sweet in its own way, ans the acidity of the straberry supplemented it in a harmonious way, while the foie added the body that seafood does not have.

I now come to one of the absolutely fabulous dishes of the evening and my entire life as a food lover. Frozen sea urchin eggs with cod tripe. What a pandemonium of tastes,  aromas and all of them encased on the tender silky texture of the cod tripe!

What followed was another absolute masterpiece, cuttlefish tagliatelle with pesto of nori seaweed. The cuttlefish was tender and tasty, drassed in the incredibly rich in aromas pesto of the nori! Heavenly, heavenly, heavenly!

The saga continued with “rossetti” which is some type of scampi with olive oil, scallions and pine kerners. It was the perfect calming down dish, after the wild extravagant taste of the previous dish. Back to “normal”, civilized, food!

We stayed on the scampi family, the next dish was scampi in their shell, with tamarind. I confess I am crazy for scampi in their shell, with minimal add ons, as you can really taste the sea in all its glory!

The next dish combined surf and turf, with glorious mouth melting smoked lonzino (a type of cured ham) accompanied by raw leerfish (lecchia), and pears soaked in grapa!

As we approach the end, leerfish is again on the menu, this type with coconut milk and olive oil!

The last dish of the menu was “esquisada di baccala”. Raw cod chunks (salted cod from San Sebastian in the Basque Country, quite possibly the best in the world), with potatoes, pendolini tomatoes and basil.This is a hymn to primary ingredients of the best quality, as the cod’s texture  is supplemented by the sweetness of the potatoes and the incredible acidity of the small tomatoes that have been blessed by the volcanic soil of Vesuvius.

The tirami-sou that followed was deconstructed and absolutely fantastic! The mascarpone was intense and ever present, the cream golden and thick, the chocolate dressed in coffee chunky and bitter! A caramelized wet biscuit on top provided the necessary absorbing agent.No cake needed!

Van Gogh in Provence – Part II: Saint Remy de Provence

Today I continue with my two part article on van Gogh’s stay in Provence. The second part covers the period he stayed in Saint Remy de Provence. Van Gogh was admitted to the Saint-Paul-de-Mausole asylum in Saint-Remy de Provence in May 1889. Saint Remy is a sleepy village 15 kilometers away from Arles. Upon my arrival I realized that there is a fully functioning mental hospital in the premises of the old asylum. Access to the premises is restricted, so no luck there. However, in a nearby building complex, that is more or less as it were 150 years ago, I found an environment and aura that trully moved me.

Vincent van Gogh was a very sick man when he was admitted to the asylum. He confessed to his brother Theo immediately after his admition that he is “a broken pitcher”.

I have read contradictory statements regarding the professionalism of the asylum in treating the mentally sick. In any case, I saw the regular instrument, the bathtub with its cover so that the patient (or victim) would be unable to free himself from the tubwith only the head and the palms sticking out.

Whatever the case, another sure sign of the restrictions was the window. A window with iron bars.

The bedroom is spartan, in many ways reminiscent of the Arles painting.

The bed is different, but the chair and the aura is the same. As as the aura of the corridor, simple, frigid and leading to eternal emptiness.

It is not coincidental that the patient wanted to paint the corridor.

Antd then there is the external world. The opening, the exit, the escape, only to return more intensely to the dark interior.

It is nice to be outside the confined space.

During the day…

and during the night …

you even have the chance to lay your eyes on a human being…

in your memories that haunt you… but prisoners always return to their inner yard

and pray for the sower to come ….

Van Gogh was not cured in the asylum and in less than one year’s period, moved north, to a small town near Paris, where he was to meet the Redeemer.

Restaurant Cilantro, Arles, Provence, France

Today I continue with a restaurant review from Provence, the picturesque town of Arles.  I want to share with you my experience from the Restaurant Cilantro, a stone’s throw from the famous Roman Arena of the town.

Συνεχιζω σημερα το οδοιπορικο στην Προβηγγια, και την ομορφη πολη της Αρλ, με την επισκεψη μου στο Εστιατοριο Κολιανδρος που ειναι διπλα στην διασημη Ρωμαϊκη Αρενα της πολης.

The young talented chef Jerome Laurent comes from 6 generations of professionals in the hospitality trades. In 2004, he has decided to open Cilantro in his home town of Arles.

Ο νεος και ταλαντουχος σεφ Ζερομ Λωραν προερχεται απο 6 γενιες επαγγελματιων σε ξενοδοχεια και εστιατορια. Το 2004 αποφασισε να ανοιξει στην γενεθλια πολη του Αρλ το εστιατοριο του.

This looks like a house entrance, and it is. The restaurant is located on the ground floor of Jerome’s family home.

Η εισοδος στο εστιατοριο, που στεγαζεται στο πατρικο σπιτι του σεφ.

The decor is minimal but quite pleasant, and the staff polite and effective.

Olive paste and chorizo to wet the appetite.

Παστα ελιας με σαλαμι πικαντικο

Caramelized scallops served in a foamy bath of aromatic stuff.

Χτενια καραμελωμενα σερβιρισμενα σε ενα αρωματικο αφρο απο βοτανα και μυρωδικα.

Artichoke cream with black truffle.

Κρεμα αγγιναρας με μαυρη τρουφα.

And now we come to the revelation of the meal, the absolute creation of Nature and the Chef: ” Veal Sweetbreads with artichokes, black truffles and mashed potatoes”.

Το απολυτο αριστουργημα της βραδιας, μοσχαρισια γλυκαδια με αγγιναρες, πουρε πατατας και μαυρη τρουφα!

In my humble experience this dish is a masterpiece and in its divine simplicity it offers you clarity of textures and tastes that is unique!

Θεϊκη απλοτητα, απολυτη ευκρινεια γευσεων και υφης, το τελειο πιατο, μοναδικη εμπειρια.

I would go back to Arles, only to taste again this dish!

Και μονο για να γευτω αυτο το πιατο, θα ξαναπαω στην Αρλ.

Thank you Jerome.

Ευχαριστω Ζερομ.

P.S. Date of visit: March 2009

Van Gogh in Provence – Part I: Arles

Today’s post is the first part of a small tribute to Vincent van Gogh and focuses on his period in the Provence town of Arles.

It is a mix of photos I have taken back in March 2009 and paintings that van Gogh painted while in Arles, with minimal commentary.

Arles is a small town in Provence, where van Gogh spent 15 months, from February 1888 to May 1889.

I start from the central square, Place du Forum, celebrated by van Gogh in his painting “Cafe Terasse on Place de Forum, Arles”. The painter was a frequent guest of the Cafe, with Gauguin.

Cafe a Place du Forum, Arles

The Arles hospital where van Gogh was hospitalized for a short time is today a public university building.

Its is a quiet place, that seems to have stood still in the passage of time.

Arles is a nice town, where people create beauty even in small things. Yellow.

The houses in the center of town are well maintained. Blue.

Van Gogh saw this beauty and delivered it as a powerful and yet moving picture. The ever present yellow, is contrasting with the cool blue.

The Rhone, the river that crosses Arles, one of the most important rivers in France, is seen in the photo in one of the most beautiful passages.

Van Gogh gave his interpretation in one of the most spectacular night paintings. Starry night over the Rhone.

No tribute to the Arles period can be considered acceptable without the sunflowers. I chose for today’s post the painting that you can see in the Neue Pinakothek in Munich, as I really like the way the light pale blue brightens the picture and somehow breaks the endless introspective nature of the subject.

P.S. Now that the article is completed, I realized that with the exclusion of the Cafe, all other paintings are basically an interplay between yellow and blue.

Tagliatelle with Octopus Ragu and Egg

Today, after the meat feast in Dario’s officina, I want to share with you a new original recipe that combines all the flavours of octopus with good eggs.

I cooked a octopus ragu, and served it with tagliatelle with an egg on top.  Here it goes.

First we prepare the octopus ragu.

The first step is to gently sautee onions, whole tomatoes and one big potato. The potato is essential in absorbing excess liguids. and then it becomes a taste bomb to be enjoyed before serving the meal!

The nice fresh octopus is then placed on top, with dried parsley, oregano, salt and pepper. I use dried stuff in order to avoid having a lot of liguid in the port. The setting of the temperature is low, so the octopous will simmer for at couple of hours.

When the ragu is ready, you let it relax for a couple of hours. Then you cut the octous in smaller bits so that they can be served with the pasta. Next step is to prepare the pasta in the juice of the ragu.

Get the best tagliatelle tha you can get, and throw them in the pan with the bubbling juices.

Keep the heat setting at medium, and then low.

After five minutes, the pasta is cooked and the dissh is almost ready. Add the chunks of octopus, and serve.

Prepare an egg in a frying pan, with very low heat. It has to be very soft, juicy, without any crust, and the yolk must be ready to explode in a fantasy of taste.

After two minutes in very low heat, just drop the egg on top of the pasta with the octopus, and you have a fantastic, flavourful dish!

Enjoy slowly, mixing the soft egg white bits and the yolk with the intense flavours of the octopus and the balancing of the tagliatelle! Be generous with the pepper, it really enhances the dish! And do not forget to sprinkle the egg with coarse salt!

Bon appetit!

Officina della Bistecca – Dario Cecchini’s meat feast

As I promised, I continue with the meat feast that Dario Cecchini offers to his guests in his one year old “Officina della Bistecca”. The evening I visited Officina, Dario had to go to an event and therefore I had the opportunity to see the place without its master.

Officina is right above the butcher shop, and during a hot August night it offers the guests everything al fresco!

The setting is very simple, there is no fancy stuff in Officina, two large tables where the guests mix and a huge grill where the drama and ecstasy of the night is played.

The menu of the feast starts with ground beef that has been jst caressed by heat, and is practically raw. It is served with rosemary, lemon and olive oil and delicious! It is sweet, very tender and leaves a very subtle aftertaste in your mouth.

Το πρωτο πιατο ειναι μοσχαρισιος κιμας, ισα ισα περασμενος απο το τηγανι, μια ανασα μονο! Στην φωτογραφια το βλεπετε με σελινο, που παει θαυμασια, μαζι με φλουδα λεμονιου και λαδακι της εληας. Γλυκισμα και αξεχαστο!

The green stuff that you see in the photo is celery, which goes really well with the meat.

Moving away from the introductory dish, we face a slab of wood on which the protagonists of the night rest. The costata, the panczanese and – of course! – the fiorentina!

The costata is a  thick rib eye cut, and in the photo it is presented by Dante, the Master of Ceremonies in the Officina. .

Η κοστατα ειναι μοσχαρισια μπριτζολα, κομμενη χοντρη για να ειναι ζουμερη και με μπολικες ουσιες οταν σερβιριστει.

The costata is first grilled flat and then on its side. Observe the marbled flesh!

Once these wonderful cuts are ready, Angelo, the Chief of the Grill Station slices them for the guests.

The costata was sweet, juicy, tender and without dripping blood, although it was cooked medium rare. The reason behind is tha t the meat in Tuscany is aged properly, about 6 days, so there is no blood or water in the flesh when it is cooked, but the absolute minimum.

We continued with the panzanese, a cut from the rump, that Dario grills and served also medium rare.

Συνεχιζουμε με την πανζανεζε, που ειναι μια εφευρεση του Νταριο, οσον αφορα το ψησιμο στα καρβουνα. Το κρεας ειναι αυτο που λεμε εμεις στρογγυλο. Και ο Νταριο το σερβιρει και αυτο ψημενο στα καρβουνα!

Observe that the meat is lean here, no marbles!

But is is juicy and full of flavours, although of course is not as tender as the costata!

And now the time has come for the Bistecca Fiorentina, the ultimate treat of the night.

Just see how marbled the cut is! And how thick!

Η φιορεντινα ειναι ενα μια μπριτζολα κοντρα, οι αμερικανοι τη λενε τι μποουν, επειδη το κοκκαλο της ειναι σατ ενα μεγαλο ταυ.

Angelo does a fantastic job and grills the Bistecca to perfection.

The fiorentina is finished by grilling it on its side, and as you see it stands on its side quite comfortably!

It was worth the wait! After almost 2 and a half hours the queen arived and she was in top form! Needless to say, you must eat everything! Including the fat bits, which are the best in my humble opinion!

Be aware! No salt, no peper or anything else is added to the meat after it is served. This is the secret of enjoying the real taste, texture and flavour of the meat. Another small secret for the enjoyment of the whole experience is to avoid eating bread and the baked potato that comes with the meat. They both fill you up when this is the last thing you want. Stick on the meat and the raw vegetables!

The feast lasted for approaximately four hours. Dario in his “menu” card says three hours, but this is on the low side. In any case, this type of extravagant eating requires time and very good company, and Dario’s guests are usually a very good company indeed!

There is not much else to say, but thank you to the team that put this all together: Marina, who inside the kitchen prepared everything to perfection, Angelo, the grill supreme master, Dante, the animator of the party, and Dario, and Kim who put everything together!

Grazie e buonanote!